Stahlhammer Cello Endpins

Product description

Exchangable endpin

1. The Stahlhammer-cello-endpin locks into two positions (angles): straight and bent 25 degrees. The endpin can be turned sideways.

2. At 125 grams (4 ounces), the Stahlhammer Carbon-fiber Endpin is one of the lightest on the market.

3. At 150 grams the Stahlhammer Aluminum-alloy Endpin is also one of the lightest on the market.

4. The tip, made of carbon steel (very hard) is threaded and replaceable.

5. The endpin is made in various lengths to suit children and tall adults: Short, 23 to 37 cm (9-14 ½ inches), Medium, 27 to 47 cm (10 ½ - 18 ½ inches), Long 30 to 52 cm (11 ¾ -20 ½ inches). Other lengths made to order.

6. The Carbon-fiber model is made in colors: black or silver.

7. The Aluminum-alloy endpin is made in colors: black, blue, red, silver, gold, or gold-plated.

8. Our Exchangeable Tube Model allows you to change/alter tubes without tuning down the strings.

9. Spare parts can be ordered separately.

10. Warranty 12 months.

11. Warning! The tip/point is sharp and can cause injury.

Instructions

1. Installation: Make the endpin-hole in the cello even/smooth with a standard reamer (1:17).

2. Insert the cone, which ranges in diameter from 23 mm to 27 mm, into the cello as far as it goes. Make a pencil line marking the border of the protruding part. Take out the cone and cut on the line with a saw. The remaining portion of the cone can be shortened to about 3 cm (1 ¼ inch). The endpin will fit perfectly into the cylindrical hole inside the cone. (Cones with diameters from 20 mm to 23 mm can be ordered separately.)

3. To play with a bent endpin: Pull out the upper (outer) tube completely, fold it to the 25-degree angle, turn the upper (outer) tube clockwise and push it all the way in, so it will get full support from the ”house”. Lock with the wing nut. For a longer bent endpin, use the lower (inner) tube. Do not use force, thumb and indexfinger is enough.

4. To play with a straight endpin: Pull out the upper (outer) tube completely, then push it back in 1 cm (1/2 inch) and lock with the wing nut. Do not push it back in more than 1 cm (1/2 inch). For a longer straight endpin, use the lower (inner) tube.

5. Lock the lower (inner) tube by turning it clockwise. Unlock it by turning it half-a-turn counter-clockwise. Leave at least 5 cm (2 inches) of the lower (inner) tube inside the upper (outer) tube, otherwise the endpin looses steadiness and can break.

6. To withdraw the endpin: Unlock the lower (inner) tube, then unlock the upper (outer) tube, push in both tubes and lock both tubes.

7. Do not use pliers or excessive force when locking the upper or lower tubes, this can cause the endpin to break. Thumb and index finger is enough.

8. If the lower (inner) tube does not lock securely, take out the lower (inner) tube and put a few drops of alcohol on the white nylon at the inner end of the lower (inner) tube. Put the lower (inner) tube back, and pull the lower (inner) tube in and out a few times to clean the inside surfaces. Wipe the lower (inner) tube clean with a dry cloth or tissue. Repeat if necessary.

9. Do not apply or allow oil or fat between (inside) or outside the tubes; it will cause the locking system to function less efficiently.

10. To replace the tip/point, unscrew the old tip/point with a wrench and apply a small drop of white wood glue, contact glue, or “light” thread locker, on the thread of the new tip to make it grip.

11.To change tube on the exchangeable model: Pull the upper (outer) tube all the way out, angle it 25 degrees, and turn it counter-clockwise (to the left) until it comes out of the “house”. If the locking mechanism falls out of the “house”, put it back in. To replace or put in another tube: Align the locking mechanism so that the steel thread at the end of the upper (outer) tube can catch the thread in the locking mechanism. Place the threaded end of the upper (outer) tube back into the “house” and turn clockwise (to the right) until the thread is all the way in. Put the the tubes in straight position and push them back through the “house” and into the cello.

12. Warning! The tip/point is sharp and can cause injury.

13. Look at: www.semmystahlhammer.se  for updates

Endorsements:

"The efficient designs and angling features of Stahlhammer endpins improve any cello's ability to project in large halls, and to be heard clearly in all repertoire from chamber music to solo."

David Finckel, Cellist, Emerson Quartet, Professor, Juilliard School, USA

“The attractive Stahlhammer endpin is simply the state of the art for any cellist.”

Lynn Harrell, Cellist, Professor, USA and England

“A design conceived from an ingenious idea, constructed in a way which is stable, reliable and esthetically appealing.”

Frans Helmerson, Cellist, Professor, Sweden and Germany

“I consider it the best of its kind. I am recommending it to all cellists.”

Janos Starker, Cellist, Professor, USA

Stahlhammer endpins can also be purchased in violin shops and professional music instrument stores, or ordered from:

Venzmer y Cia As, Argentina, www.portal-industrial.com.ar

West Violins, Brentwood, Australia

Dominant Music Instruments, Australia, www.dominantmusic.com.au

Thibouville Lamy, England

France Europé Lutherie, France,

GEWA, Germany, www.musik-gewa

Holftner, Germany

Cremona, South Korea

Maga Co., Ltd, South Korea

N.T. Sweetman, New Zeeland

Import-Export, Romuald Henglewscy, Polen, www.henglewscy.com.pl

A. Caballero, Luzern, Switzerland

Marcandella, Schaffhausen, Switzerland, www.marcandella.ch

Gramercy Music, Singapore, www.gramercy.com.sg

Howard Core & Co. Anniston, USA, www.howardcore.com

Shar Products, Ann Arbor, USA, www.sharmusic.com

Dov Schmidt, Philadelphia, USA, www.dov-music.com

Morel & Gradoux-Matt, New York, USA, www.gostrings.com and www.rareviolins.com.

Nova Strings, USA Inc. www.novastrings.com

Ifshin Violins, San Francisco, USA, www.ifshinviolins.com

Casa Parramont S.L, www.casaparramon.com

Other Links: www.metmusic.com